Rating of the best ice screws for mountaineering for 2022

Ice augers are equipment used for belaying on the ice floor. Modern models consist of a tube hollow inside and an eyelet for attaching a carabiner or quickdraw. On the other side of the tool, there are sharp teeth that screw the tool into the ice.

The history of the "growing up" of the instrument

Even in Soviet times, groups of climbers used hooks, which were driven into the ice with hammers, as insurance on the ice floor of the mountains. Such devices included the "carrot", popular at that time. True, the tool had significant drawbacks.In addition to the fact that it was difficult to score it even for a physically strong person, one unsuccessful movement could lead to the formation of chips on the ice and, accordingly, the work had to be started anew.

A little later, climbers began to use corkscrew hooks. Thin, with a small cross section, they could only withstand small loads. And twisting into the ice continued to be difficult. Developing the technical capabilities of the tools, the craftsmen came to the conclusion that it was expedient to use a hollow tube for twisting into ice. It was necessary to hammer it into the ice only a third of the length, then it was completely screwed in.

This is how the current ice screws look like. The design was supplemented only by the sharpest teeth from one edge, allowing the tool to be introduced even into the unusually hard ice that forms in the harsh winter. When ranking the best ice screws for 2022, do not forget that the best of them are considered to be those that are most easily screwed into the ice surface.

Modern market

When choosing ice axes, you should familiarize yourself with their main characteristics. These include:

• material of manufacture;
• tooth shape;
• polishing;
• tube shape;
• screw handle;
• length.

Material

All current drills of the company-manufacturers are made of high-strength steel. This is necessary so that the solid material not only “enters” the hard snow flooring without difficulty, but also retains its sharpness (keeps sharpening) for a long period of time.

But, as in any rule, this one has its exceptions, for example, a titanium or aluminum drill equipped with steel crowns.

For the most part, drills are now made from high-strength steel. During the Soviet Union, their manufacture was carried out on an industrial scale.No less popular were the handicrafts of folk craftsmen. They were made from titanium "borrowed" at defense enterprises by self-taught craftsmen.

Such instruments were the pride of Soviet climbers. There is a legend that they were at that time the main currency used to exchange equipment with groups of climbers who arrived from abroad.

The most important advantage of titanium drills was their lightness. At the same time, it was not without drawbacks. The tool was reluctant to enter the hard winter ice and dulled rather quickly.

Aluminum alloy tools equipped with crowns made of steel had a tip machined from steel. Its strong teeth perfectly keep sharpening. The main aluminum part allows you to show excellent performance in terms of weight.

Teeth and their shape

The most optimal is generally considered to be those products, the shape of the teeth is directed under an aggressive slope. Also, tools are screwed in much better, the teeth of which are sharpened inwards.

Surface

A smooth, well-polished ice screw surface has much less resistance when screwing in than a rough, poorly polished one. Thus, it is polishing that is one of the main, and at the same time, difficult tasks in the industrial production of these tools.

The difficulty lies in the fact that not only a smooth surface should be polished, but also the thread inside the tube and its inner surface. Accordingly, a product with high-quality professional polishing will cost an order of magnitude more expensive than usual.

tube shape

By right, those products are considered the best, the tube of which does not have parallel walls, but walls made in a conical way.Thus, the ice chips pass through the tool as well as possible, in turn, allowing the drill to be screwed in much easier.

A pen

Most often, manufacturers make two modifications:

Of course, modifications with a handle are more convenient. This is especially important during difficult transitions in high-risk areas. Models without handles are twisted using a special handle that is superimposed on the tool. Some climbers don't use a pen at all, but to be fair, it's not particularly comfortable.

Length

The size range of ice drills on the market differs from each other. In general, the differences directly depend on the manufacturer. You can consider basic, generally accepted patterns of instrument length, such as:

• long - from 20 cm;
• short - less than 14 cm;
• medium - from 14 to 20 cm.

Professional travelers should have tools of different lengths in their ammunition kit. This is due to the different intended use of each of them.

Long ice axes are great for summer ice. With their help, it is especially good to make so-called eyes in loose ice. These holes are quite often called Abalakov's eyes (in honor of the climber from the USSR Vitaly Abalakov, it was he who invented this method of fastening). Following this method, two holes are drilled in the opposite direction with an ice ax. Subsequently, a climbing auxiliary rope is threaded through them. The most reliable will be the attachment point that was drilled with the longest ice drill available in the equipment.

Short tools are indispensable in places with a thin layer of ice. So, the ice ax will not be able to rest against the rock before the moment when it is completely twisted.You can’t do without short tools in the case of “conquest! Solid ice formed in winter. While providing a sufficiently high strength, they are screwed into solid ice much faster.

Medium ice axes are the main ones and, accordingly, are considered the most versatile.

Overview of the best manufacturers

In order to at least slightly facilitate the choice among a fairly large assortment of equipment, you can pay attention to the list of ice screws, which are deservedly considered the best:

• Black Diamond Express;
• Grivel 360;
• Camp Radion;
• Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light;

Black Diamond Express

The classic design of the ice screw, equipped with a convenient handle for screwing into the ice, made this model one of the leading among both Russian and foreign climbers. Pleased with the size range of the brand, for convenience, each size is painted in a specific color. You can purchase an ice screw with a length of:

• 10 cm - red;
• 13 cm - yellow;
• 16 cm - blue;
• 19 cm - gray;
• 22 cm - green.

Each tool has a quality certificate, according to which the entire range of ice screws can withstand a load of 10 kN.

There are two holes for snapping the carabiner. The upper one has a purely auxiliary function (used for hanging things, backpacks, tools). The lower one is considered the main one. It has insurance on it.

The optimal shape and comfortable handle contribute to exceptionally high-quality screwing into and out of the ice. Acceptable size and perfect design allows you to get excellent eyelets. The folding handle makes it easy not only to transport the ice drill on the gazebo, but also to remove it effortlessly if necessary.

Those wishing to save on weight and price should take a closer look at a simplified modification that does not have a handle. True, this will slightly reduce the convenience of twisting the ice screw of this brand.

• universality;
• ability to withstand heavy loads;
• a wide range of sizes.

• rather high cost.

Grivel 360

The company presents three length options for its ice screws:

• 12 cm;
• 16 cm;
• 20 cm

Modifications of different sizes are indicated by color marking applied to the handle. Compared to similar products, Grivel 360 products are distinguished by their average weight.

The eyelet is small in size, which is very conducive to twisting. Drills are easily placed in small depressions in the ice and ice shells. At the same time, provided by the manufacturers, a sufficiently large hole for the carabiner allows, if necessary, to attach two pieces at once.

A qualitative difference is the presence of a long handle. Provided in a folding design, it can greatly facilitate the screwing process. When disassembled, the handle becomes like a folding large lever, which is also very convenient for climbers.

Grivel 360 ice axes have an unusual reversed thread. This directly contributes to the fact that the drill gets the opportunity to come into contact with ice over large areas. That is, during the jerk, the distribution of force occurs more purposefully. This in itself guarantees a very secure clamping of the tool, especially when it comes to loose ice.

In order to save money, the company offers to purchase a simpler modification (Helix) - it does not have a folding handle.

• quality material;
• very long handle;
• the presence of a simplified modification;
• reverse thread.

• not detected.

Camp Radion

The company produces tools in three sizes:

• 12 cm;
• 17 cm;
• 22 cm

The handle is color-coded according to size. Equipped with a sewn-in loop for attaching carabiners.. this makes the model somewhat heavier than its counterparts. The advantage is that there is no need to use a tie. So, in the end, weight still manages to be saved.

Ice screws from Camp Radion do not screw into the ice as well as the products of the previous two brands. However, they are still considered good. This is facilitated by a long handle, which transforms into a good quality lever.

In the eye of the tool there is an additional hole that allows you to fix it on the gazebo. This avoids its too low landing and interference in movement (as in the case of fastening by a quickdraw when the ice screw hangs down).

The convenience of screwing lies in the ability to hold (insure yourself) with the help of a brace. This is a great way to avoid losing a tool.

The unique thread shape is almost identical to the Grivel 360. This increases the strength of the ice screw (especially important on loose ice).

• low cost;
• sewn-in loop for carabiner;
• long handle;
• hole for mounting on the gazebo.

• average screwing capabilities.

Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light

The new generation of the familiar Laser is much more advanced. The manufacturer offers three sizes:

• 13 cm;
• 17 cm;
• 22 cm

Ice axes varying in size are color-coded. The aluminum alloy from which the tool tube is made makes the modifications of the Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light one of the lightest on the market. At the same time, the steel crown and teeth, which remain unusually sharp for a long period of time, are perfectly screwed into the ice.

The eyelet is small. The ice drill is comfortably carried on the gazebo. In addition, it can be installed in the recesses formed on an inhomogeneous ice surface. Lightweight and practical to use, the ice augers are extremely easy to screw into the ice deck.

• strength;
• compactness;
• low cost.

• not detected.

How to properly install an ice screw

In order for the drill to fulfill its purpose, it is not enough to acquire a brand of a popular brand, the main thing is to install the equipment correctly. Before proceeding with the installation, the dream is cleared of snow and ice bumps (for this, the ice screw itself is used, more precisely, its blade). For installation, the most durable place is selected. The choice is made according to the following criteria, which should be almost completely absent:

• cracks;
• air bubbles;
• voids;
• frozen pebbles.

As for the mountain slope, it is customary to distinguish between the three most common ways to position the ice screw:

• right angle;
• skew in the direction of the jerk - down;
• bullying in the opposite direction from the jerk - up.

The method of lifting in the direction opposite to the direction of the jerk has come to modern climbers since the times when ice pitons were often clogged.Using innovative devices, the opposite can be said.

The drills withstand significant loads. At the same time, they should be twisted into the ice by 10-15 less than the perpendicular to the slope surface. If it is easier to explain, then the drills should twist in the same direction with the expected jerk.

It should be noted that the difference in strength in different installation methods is small. Therefore, you can not waste time and effort in vain and install the ice screw in the simplest way - at an angle of 90 with respect to the mountain slope.

note

Even if the ice screw is installed in accordance with the rules, you should not forget that under the influence of bright sunlight it can get very hot. The consequence of this is the "thawing" of equipment from the ice surface.

If the Sun shines brightly, even a quality instrument can completely melt in two hours. You should not be naive to believe that in such a bright sun it will be possible to avoid this by sprinkling the ice screw with snow or ice chips. These "covers" simply pass ultraviolet rays and it will still fade, just later. At the same time, there is a negative side of powdering with a snow blanket. In this case, the climber does not see the drill itself and, accordingly, he will not be able to realistically assess the degree of thawing at a particular moment. This lack of control can lead to accidents.

Based on the foregoing, it is recommended not to sprinkle borax, but to carefully monitor their condition. Having noticed the thawing of the ice surface around the drill, it is necessary to twist it again.

Choose equipment from trusted manufacturers, this will ensure a comfortable journey, even if it is difficult and unpredictable.